Paris Fashion Week Fall 2021 Leave a comment


chloe

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Paris Fashion Week never disappoints in offering collections that reflect the zeitgeist, while also letting us dream. Even in this topsy-turvy period, designers are pushing forward, presenting, by and large, virtual showcases that prove why Paris is the fashion capital. Ahead, we select the best from the fall 2021 season.


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Chloe

The designers who have helmed Chloe read like a who’s who of fashion icons—Phoebe Philo, Stella McCartney, and Karl Lagerfeld, to name a few. Today, Gabriela Hearst joins rank with a stellar intro collection that brings all the rich boheme we could ever want from the French fashion label. The presentation is 100 years to the day of the label’s founder, Gaby Aghion’s birth. And sometimes the universe aligns, from one Gaby to another Gabi. With an emphasis on sustainable practices, an initiative close to Hearst’s heart, the brand has already integrated lower-impact raw materials and put a plan in place to lower carbon emissions by 2025. But we all know the greatest way to lessen the impact on the earth is to buy less and keep it forever, and these are keep forever pieces. The show began with a quote from the brand’s founder, “There was no luxury ready-to-wear; well-made clothes with quality fabrics
and fine detailing did not exist.” A series of ponchos in stripes and solids open the collection, along with knit maxi dresses. Trench coats and tailored jackets that tie at the side and dresses in leather
and wool gauze round out a cool approach to daywear. Shearlings in cropped and long version will certainly be a collectible hit for the brand. We can’t wait to see where this wanderlust traveler goes next. —Kerry Pieri

Dries Van Noten

Dries van Noten’s fall collection, shown in artful, moody images, runs the “full gamut of human emotion from happiness to rage, confusion, logic and euphoria. The heightened, dramatic, exaggerated, discreet and timid all synchronise,” according to the brand. There is a lot of emotion in these images and in these clothes, from a long white shirt dress that’s an updated take on one from his first collection in 1981 as a fashion student, to black shorts suiting and vibrant color-blocked gowns. But it somehow all comes together in that particular Dries way. Inspired by iconic artists shades of Yves Klein blue, Almodóvar Red, Koons pink, and Beuys grey felt, it’s a languid collection that almost seems to fall off the body. Denim pieces, including a maxi skirt and oversized vest lend an air of the casual, while a feathered pink and red dress is anything but. These are clothes for a life, one that runs the full gamut of human emotion, and moves about the world with ease. —Kerry Pieri

Thebe Magugu

In uncertain times, many of us look to tarot readers and astrologists for direction. Thebe Magugu, too, sought a higher power. “This season, I wanted to have a conversation with traditional healers, who have divinely been given powers to answer our most burning questions, and who act as a conduit between various realms, often by using objects of divination,” he said about his fall 2020 collection. The theme of “African Spirituality” was reflected in sharply tailored suits and Mod-inspired dresses that featured eye-catching prints of the symbols and tools used by mystics. Indeed, the way he takes the vibrant motifs of his South African heritage and places them on Eurocentric silhouettes continue to develop with every season. This clear, unwavering aesthetic leaves little doubt why he is a finalist for this year’s Woolmark Prize.—Barry Samaha

Marine Serre

Like many of us, 2020 was a point of reflection for Marine Serre, a time when she evaluated the essence of her brand. The result of this introspection? A three-part presentation aptly titled Core, which consisted of a documentary, a corresponding book, and her collection for the fall 2021 season. All let viewers peer into Serre’s “Ecofuturistic” world, showing her continuous heralding of sustainable fashion. On offer were her signatures: midi dresses made of repurposed silk scarves, multi-pocket jackets made of deadstock materials, and, of course, her iconic crescent-moon bodysuits. Serre is a master at giving recycled fabrics new life, designing them in a way that always feels au courant. This lineup was proof of that sentiment. —Barry Samaha

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