Satin embroidered gown, £2,450, Erdem
Erdem Moralıoğlu went for Regency in his spring collection. And unlike the rest of us, he wasn’t inspired by the heaving bosoms and frock coats of Bridgerton, but by Susan Sontag’s 1992 novel The Volcano Lover, an account of the love triangle between Nelson, Emma Hamilton and her husband William, and simultaneously an examination of the 1760 eruption of Vesuvius and the political shadows it cast for decades after. When Moralıoğlu says that something about the clothes of the late 18th century strikes a chord with today – the gauzy fabrics and simplified silhouettes – he might be on to something .
His customers are ordering long, floaty dresses and fluttery tulle skirts, to wear with jumpers and sheepskin-lined boots. Erdem’s long cotton dresses radiate a Jean-Jacques Rousseau ‘undoneness’, and could easily be worn at home, with flats or bare feet, under one of those slouchy, oversized cardigans that have become the new pull-it-together essential in so many collections.
‘Dreamy but pragmatic,’ is how Moralıoğlu sums up his response to 2021. ‘Life will resume, and when it does we’ll be here with beautiful clothes’.